How do I build a flute?! 

 

The ultimate question!

 I was just like you.  Trying to find information about building flutes and getting answers from the flute makers was like trying to pull your own teeth.  Most of them are vague at best when they talk about flute building.  They tell you how careful they are and how they select only certain wood, then rough out the chambers and put it together and tune it to a given scale and so on and so on.  But know one goes into the detail you need or the dimensions used.  Unfortunately, now that I have begun creating flutes, I now understand why they were so vague.  It's not that they don't want to give out the information; many of them will talk to you, (when you can get hold of them), but there are SO many variables when crafting a flute, that a direct answer to your question may not exist.  Dimensions are not always a given.  I create most of my flutes in the key of G, some in F.  The overall length of the flute will vary from flute to flute.  I hope I don't sound like I'm dodging the question,.... but I will try to get you started.  Above all, remember that every flute is a trial in creativity.  I have had flutes that absolutely refuse to play until I have almost completely finished the flute.  Normally, you can get some kind of sound out of it during construction. Then I have made some that look quite beautiful, but refuse to make a sound or be tuned.  The Joy is getting one that looks great and sounds great too.

 

Well, I hope you have time to read..........here we go.

Keep in mind that the many of the dimensions given below are not absolutes.  Variations are needed from time to time to make the flute function or sound best.  But these should get you started.

 

First lets talk about the parts.  I will refer to the picture on this web site about the parts of the flute.  Every part has its purpose and every part has variables. ( I also hold my personal flute in my hand as I give some starting dimensions)

 

THE BARREL - Key of G -approximately 21 1/2" long.  This will vary due to the length of the slow air chamber, Air channel, and Bridge.  Always cut your blanks 2" longer than needed.  You can always cut more off to tune, but can't add back on.

 

The AIR CHANNEL - This is where the air enters the flute.  The length will vary as to how long YOU want the flute to be.  Length is not important, however the longer the air channel the more difficult to drill the hole as I don't have long shank drills.  I find a good length to be about 2 1/2 - 3 inches.  This allows me to taper the mouth piece without fear of cutting into the slow air chamber.

 

The SLOW AIR CHAMBER - This chamber is internal to the flute and designed to slow the flow of air across the Fipple and reduce turbulence.  The shorter the slow air chamber the more turbulence.  The longer the chamber, the more consistent the air stream, and the longer the flute will be.  This may not be a problem to some, but to others the additional length makes playing harder because the playing holes are too far away to reach.  I find a good length for the slow air chamber is about 3".

 

The BRIDGE -  This is the area between the slow air hole and the True Sound Hole.  Can be approx. 1/2 -   1 1/2 inches.  Again, length is not critical, but the longer the length the longer the flute.

 

The TRUE SOUND HOLE  This is where the sound is actually made.  Size IS everything.  Make the True Sound Hole no longer than 7/32" ( from front to back) and any where from 5/16 - 3/8" wide (from side to side).  If you make the True Sound Hole too long, the sound will become breathy, if you make it too short the sound will be weak and muffled.  They FIPPLE is the front edge of the True Sound Hole where sound is created, and should be tapered on the inside of the sound chamber at a 45 degree angle and flat on the top outside of the flute.

 

The SOUND CHAMBER - This is where the sound resonates and pitch is changed.  The length of this chamber determines the KEY in which the flute plays.  The LONGER the chamber the lower the key,  the SHORTER the chamber, the higher the KEY.  The Diameter of the chamber also dictates the key.  The larger the bore, the lower the keys can be achieved.  The smaller bores create higher pitched flutes.  BUT, longer, smaller bores DO NOT WORK.  There is a point at which sound will not resonate in a chamber.  So keep in mind "Long Barrel, Big Bore, - Short Barrel, Small Bore".  I currently use a 3/4" bore for the Key of F ,G and A.  Length for the key of G is about 14 3/4" from the front edge of the Fipple to the foot end of the barrel. (remember to allow an inch or so to cut off in order to tune to the fundamental tone).

 

The FINGER or PLAYING HOLES - These allow the sound to be played in pitch scales.  I tune to a Pentatonic scale, (five note Native American minor scale), and sometimes in a Diatonic major scale. (do re mi fa so la ti do). The scale you choose is to your liking.

The FETISH -  This is where the Focusing channel is located.  It was usually carved to resemble a spirit animal or object that had special meaning to the player.  The actual carved fetish is at your discretion.  Many times a simple block is used.  For a first time flute I would not mess with a chimney on the fetish.  The fetish should be able to slide forward and backward to achieve the best sound.

The FOCUSING CHANNEL - This is an intricate part of the sound mechanism.  This directs the air across the fipple to create the sound and extends from the back of the slow air hole to the back of the true sound hole.  Make this channel as wide as the true sound hole and about 3/32" deep or about the thickness of a ladies nail file.  There are two basic styles of flute focusing channels, the Plains style and the Woodland style.  In the Plains style, the focusing channel is carved into the bottom of the fetish.  In the Woodland style, the focusing channel is carved into the body of the flute, and the bottom of the fetish is flat.  I personally prefer the plains style, as any adjustment to the depth of the focusing channel can be made much easier on the fetish than it can on the body of the flute.

The FOOT - This is where most of the sound comes out.  There are two types, open and closed. The Open end is most often used, but if you decide to use a Closed end with a carved figure on the end, then the use of tuning  or directional holes is necessary.  (Another subject unto itself).

 

Tired of reading yet?   There's more to come!

 

OK, let's start building. 

 

Most all Native Style flutes are made in two halves.  Native Americans did it the same way.  They would find a branch that spoke to them and split the branch in two, channel out the chambers and then glue the halves together with pine pitch or tar and tie them with sinew.

 

For a 3/4" bore flute,  I start with a 3/4" board and cut two opposing blanks about 1" wide, and at least 2" -3" longer than I will need for the desired key.  (This includes the Air channel, Slow air channel, bridge, True sound Hole, and sound Chamber plus 2", or usually around 26-28" long.)  After channeling I trim the thickness down to achieve a 1/8" wall thickness.  Basically I try to achieve a 1" OD, and a 3/4" ID.  That gives me a 1/8" wall dimension. 

 

Set up your router table to channel the inside Slow Air Chamber and Sound Chamber.  I use a 3/4" round nose bit. 

 

Next, drill the slow air hole  at the front of the slow air chamber and true sound hole at the back of the sound chamber.  I use a 3/16" and enlarge from there. (refer to the parts diagram)  With a small Jewelers file,  square up the true sound hole and working from the inside cut the fipple back at 45 degrees with a sharp narrow chisel on the inside of the barrel toward the foot.  It's easier to do it now than after you glue it up.  Also use a drill and elongate the slow air hole forward toward the fipple.  This will help to LEAD the air forward and reduce turbulence.

 

Glue the two halves together using a good wood glue, and clamp tight.  NO air leaks!

 

Once the glue is dry, you can begin to form the body.  I use a spoke shave to knock the corners off before sanding.  Some makers use a round over bit to start the shaping, and some makers turn them on a lathe.  How you choose is up to you.  Which ever method you choose, leave a flat on the top of the flute about 1/2" beyond the slow air hole and the fipple.  (again see one of the close-up views on Flute Gallery page).  This makes it easier to mate the Fetish to the barrel without having air leaks.

 

Once you have rough shaped the body, a lot of hand sanding will finish the body off.

Now "fix" the Fundamental tone of the flute.  This is the lowest note the flute will play, or the Key in which the flute will play.  If you are not concerned about achieving a certain key, continue on.  If you want to tune your flute to a specific key, you can use a pitch pipe, piano, or electronic tuner.  Begin by fixing a temporary bird on the bridge and blowing into the flute, taking note of what pitch is played.  If the tone is too low, cut off a small portion of the foot.  Check the tone and continue shortening the barrel until the proper tone is acquired.  Be careful not to cut too much off at a time.

 

Now drill the finger holes.  Start small. 1/8".  As you tune, drill the holes larger by no more than 1/64" at a time.  I space the holes evenly at 1-1/16".   Begin with the lowest hole first, (the closest to the foot.)  I place the first hole at about 4" from the foot.  Be aware that this method of tuning a Pentatonic scale will result in holes of different sizes.  Some may be as large as 5/16" or little larger.  If the spacing tends to create a hole that is too large, you can undercut the inside to raise the tone a little.  Another method is to space the bottom 3 holes at 1-1/8"apart, then a 1-1/4" space, and then space the upper three holes at 1-1/16".  This will help to compensate for holes that may become too large.  You will find a sample of the Pentatonic scale at the bottom of the page, and a table for drilling the tuning holes.  Because there are so many variables and key signatures, the tables are only a sample.  You will need to further research to find tables for other tunings in other scales than those listed.

 

Now finish sanding the entire flute before attempting to tune it.  Also use a dowel rod and wrap sand paper around the rod and sand the INSIDE of the sound barrel, then wrap steal wool around the rod and do the same thing.

 

Now you can either tune the flute by ear or use and electronic tuner.  You will have to decide how it is tuned and to what scale.  As you tune, start at the lowest hole first, tune it, then move up to the next hole.  Always tune from the bottom up.  After you tune the flute, once again steal wool the inside of the barrel and remove any burrs that protrude into the sound chamber, as any obstructions will affect the quality of sound. 

 

Finish your flute in what ever manner you decide.  I use two finishes.  Sometimes I use DEFT and other times I use Tung Oil.  I like both. Which ever method you use, oil the Inside of the sound chamber and slow air chamber to help reduce damage of moisture.

 

Create the fetish of your choice and fit it to the flute.  You will have to play with the depth of the focusing channel to get the best sound.  It is much easier to adjust the channel in the fetish than it is in the body of the flute.  I also like to rub the underside of the fetish with bees wax to help seal the foot of the fetish and prevent air leaks.  Tie the fetish on with a good piece of deer hide thong, and your Finished.

 

As for wood used.......most any kind of wood works well.  I like the soft woods for a mellow sound and hard woods for a brighter clear sound.  ( I currently play a flute made of Black Cherry, and one made of Aromatic Cedar)  I Love both of them!  It is best though to make the fetish out of hardwood, as it is less likely to be affected my moisture.

 

Well, I know it sounds like a lot, and sometimes it is, but with a little experimenting, you should be able to get started making wooden flutes.  Be ready for failures!  They do happen.  But also be ready for some surprising results!

 

 

Below are some links to places I get my info,  Also at the Oregon Flute Store you can get a set of books by Lew Paxton Price that will tell you all you need to know.  They are a little wordy, but have helped me tremendously.

 

  www.stellarflutes.com/

  www.flutetree.com

  

Well I hope this helps.. Good Luck! May all your flutes sing the sweet sounds of Mother Earth!